Learning Italian in Lecce, Italy's 'heel'

There's a reason why relatively few adults study another language.

It takes time, perseverance and you need to be embarrassment-proof when you attempt to speak.

Yet a good number of us do take up French, Spanish or Italian and dream of the day we will have the time to immerse ourselves in the country of origin and experience a much deeper level of culture through language.

So it was that last May I caught il treno from Roma to Lecce in Puglia (sometimes called Apulia), the "heel" of the boot of Italy. Before I arrived my enthusiasm was boundless. I had been learning Italian for a couple of years. I was now lower intermediate level, with dreams of an immersion experience probably more informed by Eat Pray Love than reality. I even thought I might become fluent. And so I stocked my brain with key phrases for easy conversations in trains or cafes: "sto imparando Italiano" (I am learning Italian) or more practically, "acqua del rubinetto per favore" (tap water please).

I was wrong on the fluency point, but oh-so right in choosing Lecce for this week-long adventure. After my initial unsuccessful attempts to find Elisia's apartment, things quickly clicked into place. Each morning I enjoyed a rooftop breakfast before stepping out for my lesson. My daily walk to and from these classes became a joy. Every street in Lecce has a story to tell (Via Templari, Piazza Libertini) and I was both alive to the detail and thrilled by the experience. And Elisia's patient tutelage, including a point-and-name visit to the local produce market, was both fun and informative.

There's a reason Lecce's known as the most beautiful city in southern Italy - and that's because it is. It's a winner in every way. Of course, it has the somewhat predictable European history of people coming, seeing, conquering and then departing.

The Spaniards, the French and the occasional Greeks had all dominated this peninsula at some time. It was built in southern Baroque style, carved from pietra leccese, a honey-coloured sandstone, and offers an endless parade of churches, palaces, municipal halls, and monasteries, replete with elaborate fountains, gates, balconies and statues. And everywhere, bright splashes of crimson, teal or ochre on massive iron-trimmed doors.

There's little need to list any sights you "must" see. Lecce is that delightful type of European city which is small enough to mean you can simply wander out and are bound to encounter rich local history and stories as a matter of course.

Our accommodation was also a winner. For once, the name of the lodgings - Palazzo Marini B&B di Charme - lived up to the promise. It was spacious and elegantly appointed, with friendly staff who served a substantial breakfast in the morning sun on the rooftop every day, with a bonus view of Lecce's many historic buildings.

Our days soon fell into a pattern. I would take lessons from 9-11 am and then meet my daughter for a light lunch at one of the many outdoor cafes. We'd then explore, shop, read, or relax some more on the rooftop. Some days I even practised my Italian verbs! When evening fell, we would head out for dinner at one of the many restaurants. A small number offer fine dining, but we preferred the family trattorias with quirky decor and enticing Pugliese share plates.

Along the way my confidence in using my Italian grew. I negotiated prices on shoes and plates, read (a little) of the news in the regional paper and exchanged greetings with local vendors and waiters. The receptionist at our apartment, Illaria, sent me daily Italian WhatsApp messages with tips on local treats and I learned to reply in a semi-proficient manner.

Did I speak fluently by the time I left?

Sadly no. Piano, piano or slowly, slowly remains the pace of my progress. But would I recommend an immersion experience such as this?

Cento percento!

Learning language in the original country will always require hard work and an investment of time and money. So the question is, is it worth all the effort?

I believe so.

My lessons in Lecce are proof of the value of taking the plunge. Connecting and conversing with locals in their own language is guaranteed to take your travels to a whole new level.

Getting there: It's a five-hour journey by train from Rome's Termini Station, or you can fly into nearby Bari or Brindisi.

Learning Italian: Scuola Porta d'Oriente - Istituto di Lingua e Cultura Italiana

Local delicacy: Pasticciotto is best enjoyed with coffee in Piazza Sant'Oronzo

Two great restaurants: Osteria Il Poeta Contadino, Alle Due Corti

Accommodation: Palazzo Marini B&B di Charme (about $200 per night)

The writer travelled at her own expense