TO reach Berkeley River Lodge, one of the most remote coastal lodges in the world, requires a one-hour flight in a light plane.
Our eight-seater Gippsland Aeronautics GAB Airvan takes off from Kununurra in West Australia’s north-west, flying low over the magnificent Ord River food bowl before traversing the 3675 sq km Carlton Hill Cattle station where much of Baz Luhrmann‘s movie Australia was filmed.
This huge pastoral station carries 15,000-20,000 heifers and steers – and eight years after the making of the movie locals still scratch their head that Luhrmann brought in 200 head of his own cattle for the film. “As if we didn’t have enough cattle around here.”
After about 45 minutes’ flying the magnificent and rugged Kimberley coastline comes into view. A short time later the pilot points out our destination. The plane sweeps in an arc over 20 villas scattered across massive sand dunes overlooking the ocean and the river. It’s a breathtaking, somewhat surreal, sight to see buildings here in the middle of nowhere.
The plane lands, kicking up a cloud of red dust, and we tumble out to be greeted by lodge managers Jennifer Fitzmaurice and Ross Penegar who transport us the short distance to the main lodge in two off-road vehicles. With its sweeping deck and comfortable lounge, the main lodge is another revelation. It is simply beautiful, with the emphasis on simple – a place where you feel immediately at home; a place where going barefoot is actively encouraged.
The deck where evening meals are enjoyed overlooks a brilliant blue infinity pool and beyond to an even richer blue sea. The lounge area has comfortable chairs and couches, books, a computer destined to remain untouched, and a bar.
A holiday at Berkeley River Lodge could mean languid days on the water, drifting and dreaming, and dropping a fishing line in the crystal clear waters. However, most guests choose to be active, filling their days with fishing expeditions, river cruises, hikes to rock pools and remote Indigenous rock art sites, helicopter flights, birdwatching cruises and beach picnics.
The sea at the lodge’s edge looks tantalising but regrettably swimming is a no-no because of the crocodiles. But once out on the river a short scramble up the rocks provides the opportunity to wade or lie in shallow rockpools the crocodiles can’t climb to. One day the staff pack a picnic lunch for our small party and we drive along the smooth sand abutting our “look, don’t touch beach”, stopping to inspect an aboriginal midden and then to enjoy the luxury of wading ankle deep along a cool creek bed.
We startle a feral cow gazing by a freshwater hole. The small herd of cattle obviously got wind of the live cattle export trade and wisely strayed from Kimberley cattle stations to lead a peaceful and unfettered life by the sea.
If the days are for activities, then nights are for relaxing – whether it’s dinner under the stars by candlelight or sunset drinks on top of a sand dune. Mealtime is a convivial affair with guests sitting around large shared tables swapping stories of their adventures.
The dinner invariably begins with fish that either executive chef Troy Mathews has caught or one of the guests has reeled in during their day out. One guest has fellow diners in fits of laughter as she describes how she inadvertently hooked a crocodile.
One catch that was allowed to get away that day! Fish caught by guests is usually served as slender sashimi or lightly battered tempura as a starter to that night’s meal.
We dine on barramundi and are introduced to other revered Kimberley fish such as the queenfish, threadfin salmon, mangrove jack and golden trevally. Being so far from civilisation does not mean we dine on humble fare by any means.
Mathew’s daily dishes include such delicacies as tempura prawn and kilpatrick oyster, lamb rack with couscous, prawn filo parcel and chocolate fondant with peanut butter ice-cream and peanut butter snow.
Breakfasts are cooked to order. The villas we retreat to each evening boast magnificent views with expansive windows looking out to sea or to the river. The sea breezes are filtered through louvre windows and the large decks have outdoor lounges designed for watching a perfect Kimberley sunset.
There are no televisions, telephones or any other modern day distractions, so you can totally focus on the beauty of the surroundings. Perhaps best of all, the villa’s ensuites are open to the outside air. We are gently reminded to keep the toilet lid down when not in use to prevent frogs adopting it as a playground.
Under the brilliant navy star-studded sky you can float gently in the deep free-standing bath listening to the waves crashing on the nearby shores.
On the morning we leave we are washing the last of the red sand from our feet as the plane delivers a new cargo of guests who walk into the lodge wearing an expression I instantly recognise: the look that says “I can’t believe how beautiful this is”. I’m wearing the same expression as I leave.
*Sue Preston was a guest of Berkeley River Lodge, Tourism North West and Tourism Western Australia.
If you go
THE Berkeley River Lodge recently won the prestigious Australian Hotels Association National Award for Best Deluxe Accommodation and Overall Hotel of the Year.
Standard all-inclusive overnight packages start at $1650 for two and include return scenic transfers, accommodation, all gourmet meals, beverages and guest activities.
Check for specials applying at different times of the year. As the Kimberley coast is home to some of the best fishing spots in Australia, the lodge also offers The Ultimate Fishing Adventure, which includes a half-day helicopter fishing adventure, full-day ocean fishing and full-day estuary fishing.
Guests have two exclusive fishing vessels at their disposal. Individual packages can be drawn up specifically to suit guests’ interests.
