IT’S HARD to believe that the idyllic waterside town of Russell in New Zealand’s Bay of Islands was once known as “the hell hole of the Pacific”.
Where once 17 brothels and grog shops lined the waterfront there are now only pristine white-painted historic timber buildings along the area known as the “millionaire’s circle”.
In the 1820s there were no luxury round-the-world yachts bobbing just out at sea as there are today.
It wasn’t uncommon to have 25 seal and whaling hunting vessels and trading ships from around world in the bay. Crews jumped ship and Russell became notorious for its raucous shore leave and for being a haven for escaped convicts.
This wild town was in fact the capital of New Zealand for 11 months before Auckland was given the title.
In contrast, Paihia, just 15 minutes across the waters by ferry, was known as heaven – all the “good” people lived on that side and wouldn’t come over to Russell, our guide tells us.
In the 1830s Marist Brothers came from France bringing Christianity and attempting to bring some semblance of law and order to the town. “They bypassed Heaven and came straight to Hell,” our guide says wryly.
Today Russell has only 812 permanent dwellers but the population swells to 12,000 in summer as tourists arrive and people return to holiday homes, many to go big-game fishing.
Russell’s Swordfish Club, housed in a quaint waterside building, is the oldest swordfish club in New Zealand and thought to be the second oldest in the world.
The late American author Zane Grey, who penned dozens of Western novels, was a keen fisherman here in the 1920s and ’30s and is credited for putting Russell on the map for international game fishing.
Wander the charming streets and the marks of its past are hard to miss.
New Zealand’s oldest church, Christ Church, was built here in 1836 – and if you look closely you can see musket and cannonball holes in the wall from an epic 1845 battle.
Built in 1842 to print Mauri language books, Pompallier Mission is the sole surviving building of the French Catholic Mission headquarters in the Western Pacific
The lovely Duke of Marlborough Hotel on the waterfront holds the nation’s first liquor licence and has been serving locals and visitors since 1827.
The stunningly beautiful Bay of Islands is part of Northland, a fertile and sparsely populated coastal stretch that reaches to the country’s northern tip. It has long been regarded as New Zealand’s spiritual home, for it was these shores that first welcomed ancestral Maori navigators, then intrepid European explorers.
There are 144 islands in the Bay of Islands, and the best way to see at least some of them is aboard one of the many daytrip vessels that leave from Paihia and Russell.
Our high-speed catamaran took us past uninhabited islands, pristine beaches, soaring cliffs and the remote holiday homes of reclusive millionaires.
Zane Grey described these waters as the “Angler’s Eldorado”.
It wasn’t long before we spotted our first pod of dolphins and the captain idled the boat so we could observe these magnificent creatures at close range.
Our prime destination was Piercy Island (named by Captain Cook). Its 143-metre cliffs support a helipad but it was a 16-metre high hole known simply as Hole in the Rock that we had come to see.
The natural archway was formed by the action of pounding seas over many centuries. When conditions are right, boats can pass through the narrow entrance.
Our boat idled by the entrance for a few minutes waiting for the swell to subside and then – whoosh – we went through and out to the other side. Pure exhilaration.
Nearby is the 14-metre high Cape Brett lighthouse, which stands at the entrance to the Bay of Islands.
Commissioned in 1906, it was staffed for 70 years until a small automated light was installed in 1978. Today the lighthouse’s two successive flashes every 30 seconds can be seen from a distance of 26 nautical miles.
The former assistant lighthouse keeper’s cottage was recently converted into accommodation for up to 21 people.
The price per head of $10 a night sounds like a bargain until you realise you need to walk the 20km in – the advice is to allow eight hours – carrying absolutely everything you need. On the return walk you must carry everything back including your rubbish (track fees are also payable).
Back at the small resort town of Paihia (“good here” in Maori), the most important place to visit is the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Here in 1840, the Maori chief Hone Heke became the first of 46 to sign the founding document of bicultural New Zealand. More than 500 Maori leaders followed and the Birthplace of a Nation is remembered annually on February 6, Waitangi Day.
Within the grounds is the Ngatokimatawhaorua, one of the world’s largest Maori ceremonial waka (war canoe). The 70-year-old waka was refurbished and relaunched for the 170th celebrations in 2010 and each February it is prepared for its annual Waitangi Day outing.
Made from the massive trunks of giant kauri trees, the waka – which weighs an incredible six tonnes when dry – is moved from its sheltered site across the treaty grounds and down to the sea.
It is then moored in the water for up to two days to allow the wood to swell and become airtight for the 80 paddlers and 55 passengers who will take their positions aboard.
Also in the treaty grounds is the Museum of Waitangi. This state-of-the-art, architecturally-designed museum and education centre, is the cornerstone of the redevelopment program at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. It explores the stories of Waitangi – the people, the place and the treaty – and features many valuable and significant historic pieces previously scattered through museums and private collections across the country and overseas.
Other historical features on the treaty grounds include Treaty House and the impressive national Wharenui or carved Maori meeting house titled Te Whare Rnanga (the House of Assembly) built in 1940 where cultural concerts take place.
Not far from Paihia you will find the lovely village of Keri Keri with its abundant orchards of citrus, kiwi fruit, macadamias and avocados, as well as the Makana Boutique Chocolate Factory and award-winning Ake Ake Vineyard and restaurant.
Keri Keri was one of the first places to be settled by Europeans in the early 19th century. You can tour the three-storey 1836 Stone Store – the oldest stone house in New Zealand and as robust today as the day it was built – and Kemp House, which has the honour of being the country’s oldest building.
As we toured Kemp House, guide Lindis Capper-Starr told compelling stories of what life was like for the missionaries, Maori warriors and the convicts who toiled for the early settlers.
* Sue Preston was a guest of Tourism New Zealand and flew courtesy Air New Zealand.
If you go...
THE Twin Coast Discovery Touring Route taking in Northland is an 800km circular route that starts and finishes in Auckland. Northland had the highest population, pre-European settlement, but now has the smallest, which means the roads as you move further north are generally traffic-free. It is home to some of the country’s most historic buildings.
Fullers GreatSights three-hour dolphin cruise to Hole in the Rock costs $107.
There are a number of other cruises to choose from including The Cream Trip. In 1920 a service began to the scattered islands to pick up cream from the dairy farms, dropping off mail and supplies along the way. When sightseers started asking to go along for the ride, The Cream Trip became a daily commercial tour.
The best way to get acquainted with Russell’s fascinating history is to take a one-hour Mini Tour – +64 9402-7421, www.dolphincruises.co.nz
The Waitangi Treaty Grounds are open daily except Christmas Day – www.waitangi.org.nz
For more information on travel to Northland – www.newzealand.com/au or www.northlandnz.com
You can cycle Northland using a combination of disused rail corridor, private land and road reserve – www.twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz
STAY: The holiday town of Paihia, a 31⁄2-hour drive north of Auckland, is an ideal base for exploring the area, with wonderful restaurants and accommodation. All the cruises and tours to places such as Cape Reinga leave from here.
One of the best places to stay is The Waterfront Suites Paihia which offer fully-equipped one, two or three-bedroom suites with lovely views. They occupy a prime waterfront position, close to cafes, shops and the starting point for water and land-based tours – +64 9402-5665, www.thewaterfrontpaihia.co.nz
If staying in Keri Keri you can’t go past Moon Gate Villa. Its three suites are set in delightful tropical gardens. French doors open out to private areas set with garden lounges and there is a solar-heated swimming pool. Your host is Lionel Chambers, whose great great great grandfather Te Potae Aute was a signatory to the original Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. Lionel’s breakfasts are legendary. Private dining can be arranged with a local chef – www.moongatevilla.com
GETTING THERE: Fly direct to New Zealand from capital cities as well as the Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast and Cairns with Air New Zealand. The premium carrier offers everything from the lie-flat business premier beds through to award-winning premium economy cabin, full service economy or just a seat and carry-on bag. After the trans-Tasman flight into Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch or Queenstown, you can connect seamlessly with Air New Zealand’s network of 21 domestic destinations – www.airnewzealand.com.au
