SPRING hasn’t quite sprung so there is still a nip in the air, but the sun is shining, a parade of pelicans is gliding by ancient red river gums, and stands of weeping willows reveal impatient buds all ready to burst.
We are a happy well-nourished group sailing off for another day on the authentic paddlewheeler Murray Princess, which is celebrating her 30th year of cruising on the mighty Murray River in South Australia.
Our cruise begins and ends in historic Mannum, 84km east of Adelaide, and the main port in centuries past when the Murray was a major transport highway.
There’s an old-world atmosphere aboard Murray Princess, which is full of character with dark wood panelling and brass flourishes. From a distance she looks like a tiered wedding cake with decorative lacework and fancy trims.
On board her communal lounge has its very own wow factor – a glass wall that looks out to the giant stern paddle wheel that throws off a curtain of water when in motion.
Mostly in our vintage years, we get to know one another over meals, strolling around the decks, on nature walks, or at a campfire by the river bank where we anchor one night.
On brief stops by day we become seriously competitive as we try our hand at boules on a grassy bank, while other passengers go fishing, or sit on deck enjoying the tranquillity.
We plan our activities so there is time for an optional ride on the zippy local boat Firefly, that carries just 20 passengers, and takes us close to the towering cliffs embedded with ancient seashells, tiny birds’ nests, spider webs and miniature maidenhair plants.
Not all of the 120 passengers are first-timers. Kathy is a frequent cruiser who loves the Murray and has sailed on the vessel often. “I’ve lost count of how many trips, but it would be over 30, so it is a celebration for me as well as for Murray Princess,” she says.
David, another passenger, has cruised with Murray Princess many times and is delighted to be on this 30th birthday celebration cruise.
For them, as with other frequent passengers, this paddlewheeler is “a home away from home”.
Also taking in the nostalgia is the Murray Princess’ first captain, Trevor Bedford, who oversaw her construction on HindmarshIsland near Gawler in South Australia in 1986. He calls her a boat.
“There are river boats and ocean ships; at least that is the way I see them. Murray Princess was never built to sail in an ocean!”
Captain Trevor grew up on boats, and remembers learning to steer when he wasn’t tall enough to reach the wheel. “Dad would prop me up and I would steer with my feet.”
Also on board are former captains Ray Weedon and Peter Hunter.
The present captain, Terry Salmond, is making a comeback to Murray Princess after eight years of study and time with another shipping line. “I still tell people I’m here on a two-week holiday that started 20 years ago,” he says.
All the captains have colourful stories about life on the river and some of the remarkable characters who have sailed with them.
But the River Murray is definitely the star of any cruise. She is tranquil one minute, moody when the sky is overcast, and a real show pony beside golden sandstone cliffs as the sun sets with a rosy glow.
At night, there is nothing quite so mesmerising as looking over the Murray Princess rails as dozens of pink-billed pelicans drift past on a languid river that turns a mysterious green.
Murray Princess is all about comfort, not 5-star, but indulgent all the same. Tea, coffee and biscuits are available around the clock, the bar offers daily cocktails with names like Backwater Blush and Mud Slide, and in winter there are electric blankets on the beds.
It is a treat to have porridge with a sprinkling of brown sugar for breakfast, as well as a buffet that runs from bacon, eggs and sausage, to tomatoes, mushrooms, and more. That is before we sight the blueberry muffins that definitely had our names on them.
There is also comfort food at dinner, including a Sunday roast with a modern touch. While the guys love the pork sausages, lambs shanks and fillet steak, the girls go for lighter fare such as red and green pesto garlic prawns with rocket salad, or the crispy skinned salmon on mash. We all agree the lemon meringue pie is “to-die-for”.
Already we are wishing we could stay longer as the cruise has been a much-needed battery charger ... and we make plans to be on board Murray Princess again, maybe for her 40th birthday celebration.
If you go...
MURRAY Princess is operated by Captain Cook Cruises who run cruises of three, four and seven nights. Early Booking Saver fares for the three-night Discovery Cruise start from $787 per person, twin share, including coach transfers from Adelaide or car parking in Mannum – 1300-729-938,
STAY: Passengers usually spend a night or two in Adelaide, before or after their cruise, with the Mercure Adelaide Grosvenor a pick-up point for transfers to the home port in Mannum. The hotel, which has rooms from $114 per night, is an excellent base for exploring Adelaide’s key attractions – www.mercuregrosvenorhotel.com.au
The 5-star InterContinental Adelaide, across the road from the Mercure Hotel, sits beside the River Torrens, and is directly opposite Adelaide Oval, with rooms from $160 per night –
NEW for 2017 – The seven-night Upper Murraylands Cruise will depart monthly from April 21 exploring the northern area of the Murray from Mannum to Morgan, before returning to Mannum. It will visit historic towns including Waikerie, Morgan and Swan Reach. At Blanchetown guests go through Lock No. 1 (one of 13 along the river). Wine lovers can enjoy lunch and wine tastings at Banrock Station Wine and Wetland Centre and a vineyard tour and cellar door tastings at Burk Salter Boutique Winery. Guests can also visit the cellar door at Caudo Winery and tour its beautiful gardens and orchards. Early Booking Saver Fares start from $1902 per person twin share.
* The writer was a guest of Captain Cook Cruises.