Big river, big luxury: this is how to see the Murray

For the next seven nights, Australia’s largest and most luxurious paddlewheeler, and a replica of the very first paddleboats that cruised the Murray in the 1800s, will be home as we cruise the mighty river.

Each night, after drifting slowly and serenely past majestic river gums, towering limestone cliffs and riverside holiday settlements, she will be tethered to a different gum tree on the river bank.

It’s tempting to pass the hours reading on the top sun deck or in the paddlewheel lounge with its full-length windows affording a magnificent view of the whirling paddlewheel, only stirring every few hours to eat.

However, every day is packed with activities to tempt you ashore.

There are guided walks along the riverbanks, town walks, woolshed tours, winery visits, Aboriginal archaeological sites, bocce tournaments, speedboat rides, riverside barbecues and beckoning campfires.

During a farm visit there’s an opportunity to bid for a sheep to compete in a hilarious race, to meet orphaned native animals being nursed back to health, enjoy a bush tucker breakfast, a nocturnal tractor and cart ride tour, and to hear from local Indigenous people the story of their Dreaming Place.

Except for one younger couple, all the passengers aboard this cruise are older, most in their 70s and 80s, although the oldest passenger is a spritely 97-year-old. All are lively and engaged and up for everything the day holds.

It is apparent that older people, in their wisdom, have cottoned on to something younger people have yet to discover – that this is the best Australian outback experience you can have on one of the greatest rivers in the world.

No one knows this better than 83-year-old Dave Buttress from Western Australia, on board for the 26th “perhaps 27th” time.

“I prefer this style of cruising,” he said.

“I love the tranquility. Where else can you have your lunch and see the scenery changing all the time?”

Even when he’s at home in the Perth suburb of Lesmurdie, the Murray Princess is never far from his thoughts.

Taking pride of place on his mantelpiece is a piece of wood taken from a worn-out piece of the paddlewheel that needed replacing a few years ago.

If you go...

THE new seven-night Upper Murraylands Cruise departs once a month and Early Booking Saver Fares start from $1902 per person twin share including onshore excursions, entertainment, onboard WiFi and complimentary coach transfers from Adelaide to Mannum return.

The cruise departs Mannum and heads to Swan Reach before passing though one of 13 locks. From Blanchetown, passengers are transferred by coach to the Riverland town of Waikerie and Banrock Station Wine and Wetland Centre before rejoining the Murray Princess at Cadell. The next day it’s up to Qualco before heading down river over the next few days taking in the historic towns of Morgan and Swan Reach.

The Murray Princess has a lift and some cabins are suitable for people with disabilities. The only inaccessible areas for people who can’t manage stairs are the sun deck on the top level and the sauna and spa area on the very lower level.

Guests need to book their cruise more than 60 days in advance to receive the special fare, which is 15 per cent off the full price.

Next cruise dates are August 11, September 15, October 13 and November 10. In 2018 departures include January 12, February 16 and March 16.

Captain Cook Cruises also operates weekly three, four and seven-night Murray Princess cruises from Mannum every Monday and Friday with Early Booking Saver fares starting from $803 per person twin share.

* Sue Preston was a guest of Captain Cook Cruises and the South Australian Tourism Commission.